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Naples is a surprisingly large city, and a sprawling one, with a centre that has many different focuses. The area between Piazza Garibaldi and Via Toledo, roughly related to the old Roman Neapolis. With a more modern aspect being Naples big international airport.
There are plenty of restaurants to choose from in Naples, Neapolitan cuisine consists of easy dishes cooked with fresh, healthy ingredients. As Naples is not primarily a tourist-geared city, most restaurants are family-run places used by locals and as such generally serve good food at very reasonable prices.
There's no better place in Italy to eat pizza than Naples and traditional varieties are served almost everywhere. You're also never far from a food stall for delicious snacks on the go, or you can always pick something up from the city's street markets.
The old part of the city is overflowing with bars; the best thing to do is head for one of the lively and glamorous central squares. Bear in mind though, that things don't really get going till at least 9pm. For nightclubs you may - due to the licensing laws - have to obtain a tesserino or membership card to gain entry, which will cost upwards of L20,000. For the best of the clubs head around the bay, preferably with your own transport, to the places situated in the beach areas north or south of the city.
For more highbrow culture there's the Teatro San Carlo, whose opera season runs from December to May, while the rest of the year is given over to classical concerts and ballet. The Teatro Mercadante on Piazza Municipio is a gorgeous little eighteenth-century building. It features the best of touring Italian theatre. Roberto de Simone upholds its long ultra-modern custom. The shows, such as the recent La Gatta Cerontala are soaked in Neapolitan atmosphere.
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